Category Archives: Travel
Pre-summer “Corso Lampo” at IEI
Starting May 10, IEI is offering an advanced conversation/grammar course in Redwood City, ideal to get you ready for high-season Italian travel. This morning course is taught by Italian-born Angelica di Chiara, runs for 8 weeks, and each lesson lasts for 90 minutes.
COURSE: Italian Conversation w/ grammar
LEVEL: Semi-advanced
TIME: 10am to 11:30
FREQUENCY: Weekly starting May 10
DURATION: 8 weeks
FEE: $185
Enroll by going to our ENROLLMENT page or send us a note with your check at:
Italian Educational Institute
Menlo College
1000 El Camino Real
Atherton Ca. 94027
Tell us your name, contact info, and state that you are enrolling in the morning conversation class. We will notify you of the course’s exact location.
Sinceri saluti da IEI!
Everything Italian on one site!
Looking for Italian language instruction? Organizing a trip to Italy? What about finding the greatest Italian restaurant in the Bay Area or that ultimate recipe just like your grandma used to make? Or perhaps you spent too much time watching the game (alas!) with your buddies, and need a little Italian bauble to soothe your lovely wife’s ruffled feathers. All of these things you will find on our website. We have consolidated the contents of a couple of earlier sites to provide you with a seamless Italian experience.
Along with the new commercial elements there remains, on this site, the original focus on art, culture, and history. And we intend to grow: the ultimate aim is to provide all Italophiles of the Bay Area, and beyond, a one-stop electronic storefront that will provide intellectual stimulation alongside material possessions for gracious living. Our sister site, finestItalian.com, continues unchanged, though it, too, is slated for some enhancements.
So please come visit often, drop us a line, let us know how you feel. Buy some Italian art once in a while, or an Italian pendant for your sweetheart, or a gorgeous ceramics bowl for your holiday table. But even if you don’t, we hope to hear from you.
The Founding of Mantova
Sant'Andrea, Mantova
This version of the founding myth is reported in Virgil’s Aeneid. A competing version tells that the city of Mantova gets its name from Manth, the Etruscan god of the dead in the Thyrrenian pantheon. Virgil’s version of the myth is also found in the Divine Comedy, in Canto XX of the Inferno, in which Dante himself and his Mantuan guide, Virgil, encounter the seers. Pointing out one of these souls Virgil describes the Mantuan countryside, the Lake of Garda, and the course of the Mincio, which flows into the Po at Governolo, and then asserts, with reference to the legend of Manto:
“Fer la citta’ sovra quell’ossa morte;
e per colei che ‘l loco prima elesse,
Mantua l’appellar senz’altra sorte”
“The city was built over those dead bones;
and for she who first chose the place,
Mantua it was named with no other choice”
Mantova
Palazzo Te
The legacy of the Dukes of Mantova is most apparent today in the Palazzo Ducale, an architectural complex comprising several buildings connected by various corridors and galleries, and including internal gardens and courtyards. In the Palazzo Ducale one finds the famous Camera degli Sposi (Chamber of the Newlyweds), with frescoes by Andrea Mantegna, dedicated to Ludovico Gonzaga and to his wife Barbara of Brandenburg. Another must-see in Mantova is Palazzo Te, designed by Giulio Romano in 1525 at the behest of Federico II Gonzaga. This palace, home to Federico’s “official” lover Isabella Boschetti, was built on a small wooded island in the midst of a lake since vanished. It contains the famous Sala dei Giganti, the Sala di Amore and Psyche, and the Sala dei Cavalli (the Gonzaga horse stables were famous all over Europe at that time.) Of course the city contains many more buildings of note, both secular and religious (more about Mantova) The immense Piazza Sordello, bounded on one side by the Palazzo Ducale, is the center of the old city, reached immediately by crossing one of the bridges spanning the Mincio. Palazzo Te is at the other end of the city, presumably to keep wife and official lover as far apart as possible.
Mantova’s physical location is interesting. Sitting on the Mincio, a tributary of the Po river, it was since pre-Gonzaga days surrounded by water. This was accomplished by creating four artificial lakes around the city, for defensive purposes. Since that time one of the lakes has been eliminated, but the other three are still there, with the result that Mantova occupies a little peninsula, much like San Francisco.
The most famous self-proclaimed Mantovano is of course Virgilio, the greatest of Roman poets, author of the Aeneid, and a contemporary of Caesar, Augustus, and that whole bunch. Mantova is very proud of her illustrious son, and often honors him with exhibits, conferences, and the like. In the Aeneid Virgil gives an interesting mythical account of the founding of Mantua, which we will leave for another post.
Palazzuolo and Bertinoro
PALAZZUOLO
An enchanting borgo in the green heart of Italy, where Romagna becomes Tuscany, Palazzuolo sul Senio is a place in which to rediscover a life in contact with nature, a oasis in the midst of gently sloping mountains, far from traffic pollution and from the frenetic rhythms of city life. At Palazzuolo one can visit valleys large and small, uninhabited casolari, ruins of ancient castles and historic hamlets bathed in an atmosphere that whispers of a glorious past.
ACTIVITIES
The beautiful landscape abounds with hiking and horse trails. A leisurely walk through the borgo is an ideal way to spend a couple of hours and soak in the air of the “little Switzerland of the Appenine”. Summer evenings are animated with charming markets, musical events, culinary exhibitions and important cultural activities. In 1991 Palazzuolo won the designation of “Villaggio Ideale d’Italia”, awarded by the magazine Airone and by the CEE.
BERTINORO
Another captivating hamlet in the hills of Romagna is Bertinoro, the “land of Ruby and Gold”. A little town with an illustrious history dating back to the 4th century, it boasts a fortress in which famous guests resided for various amounts of time, including Dante, the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, Cardinal Albornoz, and others. The name itself comes from the Italian verb “bere” (to drink) and the noun “oro” (gold), and it means “drinking from a golden goblet”. The Fortress still offers hospitality in 21 rooms, as does also an ancient seminary not far from the town center.
ACTIVITIES
Bertinoro is in the midst of olive oil and wine country, so a stop at some tasting establishment hidden away in the countryside is a must. Once in the village itself, a terraced restaurant offers breathtaking views of the rolling hills with manicured rows of vines and fruit trees. Across the narrow street another restaurant provides top notch typical Romagnole fare. A low-cost alternative is the neighbouring fresh pasta shop, where you can not only buy various kinds of pasta to take home, but ask them to cook you a plate right then and there and serve it to you with their excellent Bolognese ragu’.
BERTINORO AND PALAZZUOLO
Both these villages exhibit a fascinating blend of modern and traditional. The latest Fiats and Peugeots glide along the narrow cobbled streets, but in small numbers: the streets of these towns, mercifully, belong to pedestrians. Ancients doors and stone walls hide modern interiors that sport wireless connections, digital TV’s, and designer plumbing. They encapsulate, on a small the scale, the seductive paradox that is Italy.
Naples Redux
Naples’ artistic and cultural patrimony dates back two millennia, but there IS a vibrant, young Naples of music and spectacle awaiting the adventurous visitor. A place of modern entertainment, where various types of contemporary music can be enjoyed, is Galleria 19 (read: Galleria Diciannove), which is located on via San Sebastiano, in Naples’ historical center, very close to Via dei Tribunali.
As glossy and hip as any equivalent establishment in the Haight or in SoHo, Galleria 19 offers disco, contemporary pop, jazz, instrumental and vocal, often with local musicians and singers performing live. The locale, reached by going down a few steps from street level, is a remodeled old book repository, long and narrow, with the stage at the far end and a hypermodern bar along the left side. Comfortable chairs and love seats are strewn along the right side, leaving a center space for dancing. Want to rearrange the furniture to suit your group’s seating preferences? By all means forget stuffy american rules and redecorate: this is free-form Naples, where rules are kept to a minimum.
History
The ambience is a suggestive, atmospheric blend of severe ancient walls wearing the latest fashion in art and lighting. Most of the clientele, young people in their twenties and early thirties, are there in their evening best. Nowhere else in all of Naples will you see such expanses of long, stockinged female legs, ending in feet encased in pumps sporting 8-centimeter stiletto heels. As for the quintessential little black dress, this is the place to show it off, and they are little indeed. The young men do their best to keep up, in their form-fitting short coats and pants from Fusco. Definitely a feast for the eyes.
Galleria 19 was launched nine years ago by a group of young friends, among whom is Richard, an Italian-American who lived in Washington DC before settling down in Pozzuoli (a suburb of Naples) and launching the discotheque. If you get there ask for him; he’s friendly and personable, and represents an oasis of English in a sea of Italian, to mix metaphors. Which brings us to HOW you get in: before 10:00 pm don’t even bother, they will think you are an American bumpkin. If you have a car consider carefully before trying to use it to get there: this area is a ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato), and good luck trying to park anyhow! Your best bet is to make your way to Piazza Dante or Piazza Bellini, then to walk to via San Sebastiano number 19. Once you get there don’t look for outdoor bright lights or garish signs. The entrance is a discreet narrow doorway guarded by black-clad gladiators who screen all comers (and turn a fair number away.) To get in will cost you 5 euro (one-time membership fee), plus 10 euro for the evening, which includes one drink (ditto for your date, natch!)
So, park your jeans and sweatshirt for an evening and visit Galleria 19. You’ve seen the Tesoro di San Gennaro and San Giovanni a Carbonara in the morning, you’ve promenaded in Piazza San Domenico and had an aperitif at Scaturchio, you’ve had dinner at Palazzo Petrucci – now go ahead and help yourself to a dose of contemporary Naples. Tomorrow you’ll do Via dei Mille e Piazza dei Martiri, visit the Bourbon Tunnel, and dine at La Bersagliera – if there’s a better way to spend your days I don’t know what it is!
Faenza
Faenza
Palazzi, porticoed squares and a Cathedral of pure Tuscan forms
Faenza’s outstanding architectural attractions are concentrated in the two contiguous main squares: Piazza del Popolo, lined by two spectacular porticoed wings, and Piazza della Libertà. The Palazzo del Podestà and the Town Hall, both of medieval origin, stand in Piazza del Popolo. Along the east side of Piazza della Libertà one finds the splendid Cathedral. Of clear Tuscan influence, it is one of the highest expressions of Renaissance art in Romagna. Built to Giuliano da Maiano’s design, it was begun in 1474 and completed in 1511. Opposite the Cathedral the open gallery known as the Goldsmith’s Portico, built in the first decade of the 17th century, and the monumental fountain whose bronzes date to the same period, attract the eye. The Clock Tower, in front of the entrance to the Piazza, is a postwar rebuilding of the 17th century tower that stood at the crossroad of the cardo and the decuman gate of the Roman Faventia.
Faenza Majolica: all the light and color of the Renaissance
In Faenza you can visit one of the world’s most beautiful and complete art collections: the international Ceramic Museum houses pieces from all over the world and from every epoch, from classical amphoras to the works of Chagall and Picasso, and there is a rich section dedicated to Faenza pottery in the golden age of the Renaissance. The historic production of Faenza majolica is recognized worldwide as one of the highest moments of artistic creativity expressed through pottery. The tradition was born from a happy convergence of favorable conditions: a territory rich in clay, a centuries-old history of political and commercial relations with nearby Tuscany (especially with Florence ) and great sensitivity and aptitude with regard to this art form. Over 60 workshops are currently active – most of them in the city center – and offer the tourist the chance of unique purchases unavailable elsewhere.
Art, folklore and sport in great events
In September and October international contemporary and classical ceramic art events draw majolica amateurs, collectors and artists to Faenza from all over the world. In June the Palio del Niballo, a spectacular tournament between five horsemen from the districts of the town, re-evokes the magnificence and struggles of Faenza in the Manfredi epoch. The Florence – Faenza 100 kilometres, a demanding long distance race held during the last weekend in May, attracts athletes of all nationalities. For lovers of good food and drink Faenza offers welcoming restaurants both in the city centre and in the surrounding green hills. Typical regional dishes include home-made tagliatelle, cappelletti, lasagna and strozzapreti with the rich Romagnol meat sauce.
Dozza and Brisighella
Dozza's Painted Walls
La Valle del Senio, in Romagna, like a necklace encrusted with precious jewels, is dotted with fascinating little borghi in which history and art live side by side and which offer a glimpse of contemporary Italian life apparently immune to the demands of modernity. Two such magical places are Brisighella and Dozza.
Brisighella was founded in the 13th century by the Italian condottiere Maghinardo Pagano. The lords of Faenza began building the Rock of Brisighella a century later, which then took its final form during the lordship of Venice, in the 16th century. The borgo is formed of a labyrinth of ancient narrow streets, of which the most famous is Via degli Asini (Street of the Donkeys.) Over the town dominates the Pieve di S. Giovanni Ottavo, erected in the fifth century and enlarged between the 11th and 12th centuries. The lore of Brisighella is filled with interesting anecdotes and historical tidbits from ancient to contemporary times, and the town is perfect for leisurely walks – distances are short, the streets are well-kept, the traffic is minimal, opportunities for gelati and cappuccini abound. A local guide with detailed knowledge is available and will add immensely to the understanding of the town.
Dozza, another little artistic jewel, is only a few kilometers from Brisighella and is known for two things: one is the Rocca Sforzesca, built by Caterina Sforza in the late Quattrocento and later used as a palazzo signorile. The borgo itself is of ancient origin, probably founded by the Gauls well before the Roman conquest. The Rock is powerful, massive, and was inhabited by the descendants of the Malvezzi, lords during the Renaissance, until 1960. Today the Rock houses a museum and a sophisticated wine bar in which all manner of local wines can be tasted and purchased.
The second noteworthy thing about Dozza is the biannual festival of the Muro Dipinto (Painted Wall.) Every other year selected artists from all over Italy converge on Dozza and paint works of art on the walls of its palazzi, so that a walk through the town becomes a walk through an outdoors art gallery. Like Brisighella, Dozza offers the opportunity of a leisurely promenade with beautiful vistas across the Valle del Senio, and, above all, the opportunity to experience an Italy largely unspoiled by the influx of tourists and the pressures of modern commercialism.
Brisighella - Via degli Asini
Under the Flag at Dozza
Rocca Di Dozza
Riolo Terme in Romagna
Hotel Golfo delle Terme
To stroll the cobbled streets of Riolo is to enter a different reality. Cars and motorini are very much in evidence, but they are mostly parked. There is none of the obsessive and overwhelming traffic of the major Italian cities; people go about their business mostly on foot, serenely and urbanely. Surrounding the town, everywhere, there are the rolling vistas of the Valle del Senio. Here you can select your favorite cafe’ or gelateria, stroll there every day, get to know your host, and ritually have your cornetto e caffe’.
Hotel Golfo delle Terme
One of the best hotels in the city is the Hotel Golf delle Terme, periodically restructured and modernised since ancient times, with spacious common rooms for group activities, beautiful decor, and understated old-world elegance. Double rooms can be had in two flavors: more spacious but lacking the view of the valley, or somewhat smaller with spectacular valley views. Service is first class, as is the hotel restaurant. The hotel managers, Sig. Marco Gamberucci and Signora Gamberucci, are degustatori professionisti, and have kindly offered a brief degustazione of local wines, oils, and cheeses.
Not to be overlooked are the Terme of Riolo. Here one goes for a variety of healthful and relaxing activities, such as mineral baths, massages, and the like. The thermal bath culture is of course widespread in Europe, and it goes back to the practices of the ancient Romans. The Riolo Terme boasts an Ear, Nose and Throat Center, mud-balneotherapy, a center for natural methods, a motor and pulmonary Rehabilitation Center, and a Wellness Center that includes a new, elegant thermarium and a splendid pool with salso-bromo-iodine thermal water, chlorine-free, at 34 deg Celsius.
Equally important is the central location of Riolo, which makes it an ideal jumping point for a variety of excursions to major artistic and historical centers, some of which are listed below
Riolo Baths
to Ravenna – 40 km (25 miles)
to Bologna – 60 km (38 miles)
to Ferrara – 80 km (50 miles)
The outing requiring the longest ride is to Ferrara, a mere hour by bus. Side trips to places other than cities, such as to Brisighella or Palazzuolo, are equally short. The tour of the Valle del Senio, which includes visits to a winery and to a chocolate factory, is also manageable and comfortable. Even for Italy, dense with places of interest, the location of Riolo is unmatched as a starting point for further exploration.
Napoli sotterranea
Napoli sotterranea
The treasures of Naples are endless. I know the city, and yet in the course of three days there we found things new and undreamed of. One of these is Napoli Sotterranea, the subterranean city above which the modern city is built. This consists of an extensive network of underground passages, caverns and cisterns, whose deepest recesses date back to pre-Christian Greek times. Above the Greek layer one finds structures dating from Roman times, and above these one finds medieval walls and artifacts. The underground city exists for several reasons: first of all, in constructing their buildings, Neapolitans simply used the surrounding tufa, the volcanic rock ubiquitous in the region. So, as a palace or a church went up, a hole was created by the quarrying of the building material. A key use for this growing network of underground passages, then, since ancient times, was the storage of water for the city. The water came from springs in the Apennine mountains, according to the ancient techniques of the Romans, who were able to build long aqueducts without pumps. Amazingly, this water collection and delivery system persisted into the 19th century, when, because of contamination from seeping sewage, it was abandoned in favor of the current hydraulic system.
The urban legends connected with the construction and maintenance of the ancient hydraulic network are fascinating. For example, ‘o munaciello, a sort of Neapolitan playful and impish apparition that haunts some of the city’s palaces, is identified with the underground workers who tended to the water cisterns, and who effectively had unfettered access to these dwellings. So they came to rummage at night, or, in spicier versions of the story, at those times when the husband was safely out of the way at his work and the lady of the house was at home and alone.
As a tourist attraction, Napoli Sotterranea is a relatively recent addition. There’s more than one way to get into it. One is to find your way to the Gambrinus, sit out there with your coffee or cappuccino, and be on the lookout for someone holding up a sign advertising the subterranean tour. Brush up on you Italian, though, this tour is exclusively in that language.
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